Peru & Machu Picchu

I’m forcing myself to write this post, enticing myself with the promise of a few episodes of 30 Rock on Netflix if I finish. I never have a problem reliving a vacation through my writing. I am usually happy to peruse my mental catalog of the dishes I ate and the views I meticulously photographed. But this trip ended with a 2-day stint in the hospital, so reliving this trip is a bit like drinking orange juice after you’ve brushed your teeth: bitter, and simply too soon. But, alas, dear reader, I will do it for you.

Now, if you’re reading this in the hopes of going to Peru and Machu Picchu yourself, understand that more planning went into this trip than any of my other trips, say to Europe. Machu Picchu tours book up early in the year, and you must book at least 4-5 months in advance to guarantee you get an entrance ticket since they only let so many people in every day. Also, Peru’s window of enjoyable weather for hiking around Machu Picchu is small, really only from May-September. Seasons are flipped, so traveling in May or September is ideal since temperatures will be milder in spring and autumn. You can do Machu Picchu on your own, although I suggest a guide, but if you’re going to hike the Inca Trail (a 5-day trek through the jungle to Machu Picchu) a guide is necessary. There are plenty out there, but do your research since some are more reputable than others.

We chose to schedule our itinerary such that we flew into Lima and had a few days to explore there before heading to Cusco and eventually Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu. This is a classic itinerary suggested in nearly every guidebook. Though, I don’t necessarily recommend it. My mom and I found much left to be wanting in Lima. The architecture of old town was beautiful and definitely had character. El Monasterio de San Francisco was a favorite sight of mine with its catacombs, but the city lacks “sights” to see. Much of the city is industrial with only a few neighborhoods worth seeing like Barranco and Miraflores. I know that this opinion might be unpopular, because who is to say that one neighborhood is worth seeing and another is not? I simply mean to say that if you’re going to spend your money to sight-see, your money is better spent in Cusco, Arequipas, or Puno. The only exception is if you are a foodie, because Lima boasts some of the best restaurants in Latin America and is the home to renown chef Gastón Acurio. I found myself scraping the last bits of rice and sauce off my plate of Lomo Saltado, a traditional Peruvian dish of sautéed beef, tomatoes, onions, potatoes, and rice, hoping to get one last taste of the dish’s almost Asian umami flavor. If you want the best Lomo Saltado in Lima, try Songoro Cosongo.

The only way to get from Lima to Cusco is to fly, so we made the hour long flight for the second leg of our trip. Within minutes of being outside the airport, I could see and feel the different vibe of Cusco. It is significantly smaller and feels so. The town is comprised of only a few square miles penned in by the mountains. We spent four days in Cusco before heading to Aguas Calientes, the town of Machu Picchu, which is plenty of time. The main highlights of Cusco are the Plaza de Armas (the main square), the Mercado Central de San Pedro, and the Cusco Cathedral. A fair warning to those of you who go to the Mercado; be aware that the market is going to smell…bad. It’s the smell of fruit and vegetables left out in the sun too long and slowly souring animal meat. This place is not for the squeamish. Bloody pig and cow heads are on display and flies swarm around them. I know I’m not making it sound the most appealing, but it is also the most authentic view of Cusco that you’re going to get. Nearly everyone is in traditional clothing, and for once Westerners are the odd ones out.

Tack on at least one day to your Cusco stay to see the ancient ruins in El Valle Sagrado, or the Sacred Valley. The closest to Cusco, and a nice hike if you’re up for it, is Sacsayhuaman. The joke, which you literally cannot avoid, is that it is pronounced “Sexy Woman.” The main attraction about Sacsayhuaman is the rocks used as building blocks and how a pre-Incan civilization was able to cut the rocks in such as way that they fit together with no gaps. Seriously, you can’t even stick a piece of paper between most of the rocks. The other must seen ruin on the Sacred Valley tour is Ollantaytambo. The hike to the top is brutal, especially if you aren’t used to high altitudes, but if you can get over the feeling of having the wind knocked out of you, the views of the valley and the terraced mountains are the best you’ll get. A tour is the best way to see it all, but do your research. Our tour promised on several things that it didn’t deliver, leaving us more than a little disappointed.

After Cusco we took a train up the mountain and into Aguas Calientes. The train ride is half of the fun, because it promises spectacular views of mountains untouched by tourism. Aguas Calientes itself does not have much in terms of sights to see. Most people spend the night before they tour Machu Picchu there, and that’s the best option. It allows you to get up early to get in line for the first buses to the ruins. Aguas Calientes literally means “hot springs,” so if you have some time to spare these are worth seeing. Although, admittedly we did not go in. The water was murky and smelled of sulfur, so we opted to just dip in our feet. Either way, the springs are in a valley surrounded by lush rainforest and provide an amazing ambiance to relax for a few hours. Now, something to note about Machu Picchu. You want to get there early, and I don’t mean 7am early. I mean 5am early. The first bus leaves at 5am, but the lines start around 4am. It’s crazy, but if you want to make sure you get there before the crowds, this is necessary and worth it.

We arrived on one of the first buses and had our tour at 5am as the sun was rising over the mountains and the ruins were still shrouded in mist. I almost don’t want to try to describe Machu Picchu, because I can’t. I can only describe it as surreal. It’s so untouched that you can almost imagine what Hiram Bingham saw when he first arrived and “discovered” Machu Picchu. However, there are so many things that are impossible to imagine, namely how they built it. The best part for me was climbing Huayna Picchu, the main peak in the iconic photo of the ruins. But if you’re planning on climbing this, you need a special entrance ticket that must be purchased months ahead of time. Also, be aware that this climb is not for inexperienced climbers. Even I as a 22 year old struggled. There are points on the climb when the steepness becomes like climbing a ladder. There are actual handles inserted into the mountain. Several people have fallen to their deaths on this climb, so it’s not to be taken lightly. But my 57 year old mother did it, so it definitely can be done if you’re not an expert climber.

The luckiest I think I’ve ever gotten in life was not getting sick until after I was able to see Machu Picchu. The next day I woke up with intense cramping in my abdomen, vomiting, and diarrhea. I know, TMI. But let this be a warning to you all—DO NOT DRINK THE WATER. I got lazy and had Coke with ice a few times. I ended up in the hospital with infectious colitis.

Was this my favorite trip? No, for the single fact that it ended so badly. But whenever anyone asks me about it I tell them that they still have to see it. Machu Picchu is the most amazing, awe-inspiring place I’ve ever been. I hope to be back on better terms, but thank god the diarrhea held off because there aren’t any bathrooms. Maybe that’s the best I could have hoped for.